Nintendo 3DS Teardown

The Nintendo 3DS doesn't have the fastest processor among mobile gaming devices. Nor does it have the highest resolution screen, most storage capacity, or longest battery life. But what it lacks in hardware muscle, it makes up for with an innovative glasses-free 3D gaming experience.

Follow along as I crack open the Nintendo 3DS.

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

At launch, the Nintendo 3DS has a $249.99 (US) MSRP and comes in Aqua Blue or Cosmo Black. The 3DS measures 2.9 inches high, 5.3 inches long, and 0.8 inches deep. The handheld weighs about 8 ounces.

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Inside the Nintendo 3DS' box are the Nintendo 3DS system, charging cradle, AC power adapter, stylus, and 2GB SD Memory Card (located inside the 3DS).

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

The Nintendo 3DS has three camers--two outer-facing and one inner-facing. The outer-facing cameras allow you to take 3D photo and play augmented reality games.  The two outer-facing cameras are located along the leading edge of the top cover. Next to the cameras is the camera LED, which lights up when the cameras are in use.

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Along the front of the Nintendo 3DS are the stereo headphone jack, power LED, and battery recharge LED.

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Along the right side of the Nintendo 3DS are the Wireless LED, Wireless switch, and 3D Depth Slider.

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Along the rear edge of the Nintendo 3DS are the R button, cradle connectors, AC power adapter connector, Game Card slot, stylus holder, Infrared transceiver, and L button.

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Along the left side of the Nintendo 3DS are the Volume control and SD card slot.

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

With the Nintendo 3DS' lid opened, we can see the two LCD screens, Circle Pad, + Control Pad, Control buttons, left and right speakers, Select button, Home button, Start button, power button, and inner-facing camera.

The upper LCD panel measure 3.53 inches (diagonal) and delivers a maximum resolution of 800 x 240 pixels (400 x 240 pixels in 3D mode).

The lower LCD panel measures 3.02 inches (diagonal) and delivers s resolution of 320 x 240 pixels.

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Four Phillips #000 screws hold the Nintendo 3DS' battery cover in place.

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

The bottom cover's screws will release from the Nintendo 3DS' case, but reamin attached to the cover. With the screws removed, I was able to lift off the batter cover.

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Using a thin metal blade, I popped the battery loose from the Nintendo 3DS' case.

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

The Nintendo 3DS has a 3.7V 1300mAh 5Wh Li-Ion battery, which provides about 3-5 hours of battery life.

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Ten Phillips screws hold the Nintendo 3DS' inner case in place. I removed the single screw located in the Game Card slot first.

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Caption by: Bill Detwiler

After removing the Game Card slot screw, I removed the Nintendo 3DS' stylus.

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Caption by: Bill Detwiler

After removing the Nintendo 3DS' stylus, I removed the remaining nine Phillips screws.

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

With all the screws removed, you can lift the lower case cover up away from the rest of the Nintendo 3DS. Be carfull when does this, as several ribbon cables will still be connected to the main PCB.

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Two small ribbon cables connect the lower half of the Nintendo 3DS' case to the main PCB.

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

With the lower half of the Nintendo 3DS' case removed, we get our first good look at that hardware inside the device.

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

The Nintendo 3DS' Circle Pad controller is held in place with two Phillips screws.

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

After removing the Circle Pad controller mechanism, I turned my attention to the Nintendo 3DS' Wi-Fi card.

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Next, I removed the Wi-Fi card using a plastic spudger.

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Caption by: Bill Detwiler

A single antena wire is attached to the bottom of the Nintendo 3DS' Wi-Fi card.

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

The Nintendo 3DS uses a Mitsumi DWM-W02 Wi-Fi card.

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Unfortunately the Wi-Fi card's metal EMI shield is soldered to the PCB so, I won't be able to show you the Atheros chip that sits underneath.

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Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

The Nintendo 3DS' IR board has an NXP chip with markings 8750 0211 TSD033C.

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Next, I removed the screws holding the Nintendo 3DS' SD card slot to the case.

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

After removed the SD card slot's screws and popping loose its connector, I used a thin metal blade to gently pry it loose from the EMI shield that it is glued to. I was able to do this without damaging either component.

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Next, I turned my attention to removing the Nintendo 3DS' main PCB. Several screws hold it to the upper half of the case and had to be removed.

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

You must also detach any remaining ribbon cables and connectors from the main PCB.

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

With the screws removed and ribbon cables detached, you can lift the main PCB away from the Nintendo 3DS.

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

You'll also need to disconnect a ribbon cable from the underside of the main PCB.

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

For now, I left the lower LCD screen attached to the main PCB. I'll disconnect it later.

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

With the main PCB removed from the case, I disconnected the Nintendo 3DS' lower LCD screen.

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

The volume control slider is attached to the underside of the main PCB.

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Unfortunately, most of the interesting chips on the Nintendo 3DS' main PCB are covered by EMI shields, which are soldered to the PCB. As I want to put this machine back together in working order, I'm not going to remove the shields and risk damaging the PCB or chips.

For a look at the chips under these shields, I've included a photo from friends over at iFixit. They disassembled a Japaneese version of the 3DS a few weeks back and did remove the shields.

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Our friends over at iFixit obtained a Japanese version of the Nintendo 3DS a few weeks ago, and did a complete teardown. Here's one of the photos from their gallery that shows all the chips on the 3DS' main PCB.

As I noted earlier, most of the chips are covered by metal EMi shields that are soldered to the main PCB. As I wanted to reassemble our test unit in working order, I decided not to remove the shields.

Photo by: iFixit.com / Reused with permission
Caption by: Bill Detwiler

Thanks to its standard (aleit small) Phillips screws, the Nintendo 3DS isn't too difficult to open. Unfortunatley once you're inside, things get a bit more complicated.

The 3DS contains many small ribbon cables and connectors. You could easily break one of them during the cracking open process. I actually knocked the lock off one of the tiny ribbon cable connectors, and then spent the next 20 minutes reattaching it. At least the battery is easy to change.

Photo by: Bill Detwiler / TechRepublic
Caption by: Bill Detwiler