Coat hanger wire is just as good as a high-quality speaker cable
Summary: Believe it or not, coat hangers can be used as audio cables, and the sound quality is almost indistinguishable from systems with expensive cables.
Here's a question that pops up regularly in the Hardware 2.0 mailbox:
Does high quality cabling make any difference to audio/video quality?
When you're in a store and faced with a cable that costs a few bucks and another that costs a few hundred bucks, it's easy to think that the expensive cable must have some special secret sauce that the cheap cable is lacking, and that the cheap cable is somehow going to offer you a sub-standard, lower-quality experience.
And if you're spending big money on AV or home entertainment hardware then it's easy to be tempted to go for expensive cables just in case you're not going to get the best from your gear.
And that's exactly what the makers of the expensive cables want you to think.
I've always maintained that there's no difference between cheap cables and the expensive cables, with the exception the price, the packaging, and the hype levels. In the testing I've done, I've never been able to see or hear any difference whatsoever between the cheap stuff and the big bucks stuff. And as we move from analog to digital, it makes sense that the cable won't make a difference.
Either those 1's and 0's are getting down the cable, or they're not. It's that simple. I always buy cheap cables and have been more than satisfied with the results they deliver.
But I'm no hardcore audiophile. Maybe people with better kit -- or better ears -- than I have can tell the difference between cheap cables and the expensive stuff?
Nope.
There's an interesting albeit old post over on the Audioholics forum where folks with some very good kit decided to put Monster 1000 speaker cables up against probably the worst cabling you could have - coat hangers.
The outcome says it all:
After 5 tests, none could determine which was the Monster 1000 cable or the coat hanger wire. Further, when music was played through the coat hanger wire, we were asked if what we heard sounded good to us. All agreed that what was heard sounded excellent, however, when A-B tests occurred, it was impossible to determine which sounded best the majority of the time and which wire was in use.
Needless to say, after the blindfolds came off and we saw what my brother did, we learned he was right...most of what manufactures have to say about their products is pure hype. It seems the more they charge, the more hyped it is.
The more they charge, the more hyped it is. Remember that.
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Talkback
Believe it or not, any web browser works just as well, regardless of brand
Excellent article
What's even more amusing is that Best Buy was selling like a $1000 HDMI cable or something. I found the site of the manufactuer and looked at their catalog.
Would you believe an electric cord, the standard style used for computers and a whole range of electrical products, selling for $395!!
The "shielded" cable was supposed to elimiate any noise pickeed up by the house wiring!
Magic power cable
MAGIC POWER CABLE?
I go to the hardware store/depot and get # 12 clear lamp cord by the reel 500'.
It is identified for polarity(one side has a ridge, the other is smooth).
Then go buy some quality audio equipment with the $ the monsters did not get.
# 12 wire is good for 20 amps(20,000 watts) ac power.
and knock the drywall off the walls when you crank up that new system!!!!
The old saying is a fool and his money go their seprate ways.
LOL
LOL, that's like trying to improve the ride on your wife's Camry by replacing the shocks on your Taurus.
Well, he may have a point with that shielded cable...
HDMI...
They work great.
From an audio professional
These are all issues of basic build quality and it is worth paying a little more in that regard. But the oxygen-free/aligned electron/cold-sink silliness is just that.
People who think
This is the biggest lie ever.
they can are deluding themselves.....
[i]Exception # 1:[/i] Low level [b]audio[/b]. With low level audio, the materials used for the [b]connectors[/b] makes a [b]big[/b] difference. Many cheap tin plated connectors encounter reliability problems as they age. Nickle or gold plated connectors are preferable (depending on your budget).
[i]Exception #2:[/i] Internal computer cables. As the [u]unfortunate[/u] owner of an early "personal computer", (a Radio Shack TRS-80 Model 1), the problems with tin plated edge connectors totally ruined an otherwise unique experience (for that point in time). The urging to keep a stock of `pink pearl` erasers on hand to clean off the oxidation was one well heeded. Those of us who tired of monthly teardowns to remove the oxidation found that by soldering on [b]gold plated[/b] Berg stick headers, and replacing the ribbon cable connectors with [b]gold plated[/b] IDC connectors; those problems vanished. Ever look at the contacts on most modern memory modules, IDE/SATA interface connectors? They are [b]gold plated[/b] for a reason.
Radar
True...
Capacitance, amps etc
Agree but some details
2) You have to compare apples to apples. On a high power system 20 gauge speaker will not compare favorably to 16 gauge. So buy cheap wire but make sure it isn't too small for the job. Keep the wire short as possible. So if cheap wire means small gauge and expensive wire means big gauge then you could hear the difference if the small gauge is too small. But given equivalent gauges you should be fine. Note that 16 gauge should easily be able to handle 500 watts continuously as long as you don't go past 30 feet.
3) Patch A/V cords carry small signals unlike speaker wire so. But as long as the cable isn't total junk it should work fine. Keep these as short as possible to avoid picking up noise.
4) Length changes things. So for very long runs you need to up the gauge.
Lamp cord works fine
Subjective vs Objective
For the sake of argument, one day I and a friend spent three hours listening to specific cuts from some excellent CDs using a baseline system which consisted of Krell components and B&W 801 speakers all interconnected with the top of the line MIT cable that was way too expensive. The value of that system at the time was way over $50,000. On the other wall of the room was a system with Rotel components and B$W 805 speakers, connected with Monster Cable, I think. We would play two or three cuts on the $$$ system and then put the CD in the "cheap" (less than a 10th the cost of the big system), move our chairs and sit back and listen to the same cuts. We did that three or four times to get a real feel for the things we felt were different about the presentation of the music delivered by each system. Then the sales guy installed a set of the lower priced MIT cable in the cheap system. We went about our routine and both of us noted that the cheap system had a certain liveliness and transparency that was closer to the presentation of the expensive one. This took us about three hours, critically listening and comparing. We came to the conclusion that the better cable would be a good addition to the cheap system in this case. It was too expensive for my pocketbook and the perceived improvement was subtle, but that is one of the fun aspects of music listening and equipment evaluating. I would be very happy with 14 gauge zip chord more than likely once the system is up and running at my house. But if I had the money for higher priced cables in my budget I would do some subjective auditioning to make my choice, not A/B/X testing...
Agree heartily!
You do not want to use shielded cable on a speaker run, the higher current can create some weird tonal changes due to capacitance issues between the conductors and the grounded shield. Also for long speaker wire runs, you'll want to use twisted pair wire of the appropriate gauge, 14 or bigger, to help reduce induced RF interference. I attended a church right off an interstate highway and the truckers' CB transmissions would sometimes come through loud and clear... made for interesting sermons at times. ;)
One benefit of using "somewhat" more expensive patch cables is that the really cheap ones use very small gauge wire for the coax core lead; they break easily if pulled or pinched just wrong.
I'm a guitar and bass player, so I've sprung for the Monster brand guitar cable once. The main benefit for that was a heavier jacket, and really solid 1/4" plugs on each end. No audible difference really; it was supposed to be especially made for bass guitar... yeah whatever. The main thing there, again like the patch cables, has to do with the hardiness of the wire itself and the quality of the connectors. I don't think the electrons care when they're only running 15' down the cable.
Only Exception
Monster = 12 ga solid core performance
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Litz_wire
Just open your equipment and see if they use 'monster' cables inside...
You do realize a car drives better when it's all shiny?
[i]~~~~~~~~~~
Nothing is easier than self-deceit. For what each man wishes, that he also believes to be true.
~ Demosthenes
The philosophy behind much advertising is based on the old observation that every man is really two men - the man he is and the man he wants to be.
~ William Feather
Advertising may be described as the science of arresting the human intelligence long enough to get money from it.
~ Stephen Leacock[/i]